of San Nicolò
Opposite to the Templar's residence, at the corner of the Ponte
Vecchio and via de' Bardi, is the Palazzo Manelli, where Bocaccio
spent many an hour with his friend Francesco di Amanetti, who
made a copy of the Decameron from the original manuscript.
The street following the course up to the river from Palazzo
Mannelli to Piazza de Mozzi is known as the Via de' Bardi; but
the line of picturesque houses, of which it once consisted,
have been in great part destroyed to form the new quay. Many
bloody battle took place in this long winding street, but the
hardest fought was in the year 1343, when the nobles offered
a stout resistance to the attack of the popular party, whom
they had roused to anger by their insolent pretensions, even
even after they had lost all political power with the fall of
the Duke of Athens, which they themselves had the first to occasion.
Among the buildings lately demolished was the little Church
of Santa Maria sopr' Arno, once under the patronage of the Buondelmonti
family, and connected with a romantic story, which is illustrative
of the old Florentine manners.
The Buondelmonti who were Ghibellines, held in abhorence all
the Bardi who belonged to the Guelphis party. It changed, however,
one day Ippolito Buondelmonti, a handsome and accomplished youth,
met in the Baptistery, or Church of San Giovanni, Dianora, the
beautiful daugther of Amerigo de' Bardi, who inhabited a palace
which, amidst late demolition, is still left standing, and is
better known as the Palazzo Tempi
Ippolito inquried her name, and from that hour sought every
oppurtunity to pay his court to the lady, although he dared
not declare his attachment from the enmity which subsisted between
their families. This concealment preyed on his health and his
mother, with difficulty, extracted from him the cause of his
In her anxiety for the life of her son, she sought counsel from
a lady related to Dianora, named Contessa, who contrived a meeting
for the lovers at her villa outside Firenze. A secret marriage
followed, and Ippolito and Dianora were thus made happy. But
one evening when Ippolito was on his way to visit his wife,
carrying a rope ladder in his hands, he was observed and seized
by the Bargello and his officers who were going the rounds of
the city, and mistook him for a robber. Rather than betray Dianora,
Ippolito submitted to this accusation, and when his father Buondelmonti
was summoned, his entreaties for the pardon of his son were
The following day, the flag of justice, the sign of a condemnation
to death, was hoisted over the gate of the Palazzo del Podestà.
Ippolito's one prayer was, however, granted - that, on his way
to execution, he should be led past the house of Amerigo de'
Bardi, in order, as he said, that he might seek a reconciliation
with his enemies. Dianora was at the window when the procession
appeared below, and rushing down the staircase she acknowledged
Ippolito as her husband.
The young couple and their parents were brought before the
Podestà, who persuaded Amerigo de' Bardi to consent to
the marriage, when peace was for awhile restored to the city.
(*) This tale is preserved in a MS.in the Peruzzi family, who
were partners with the Bardi in the bank of Bardi and Peruzzi.
On the facade of the Church of S.ta Maria sopr' Arno was an
" Fuccio mi feci, M.C.C.XXIV." - suppossed to have
been placed here by Ippolito Bundelmonti in commemoration of
his exploit, and of his having feigned himself a robber, as
Fuccio was the name of a note brigand of those times, who has
been celebrated by Dante:-
. " Son Vanni Fucci
Bestia e Pistoia mi fu degna tana
In qui son messo tanto perch' è fui
Ladro alla sagrestia de' belli arredi."
Inferno, canto XXIV., v. 124-151
A sarcophagus was attached to the outer wall of S.ta Maria
sopr' Arno, where a certain Cavaliere de' Bardi was interred
in the year 1342. A priest contrived to climb into it that night
with the intention of robbing the dead of the jewels and money
placed there. One of the bravos employed by the Duke of Athens
happening to pass that way, the priest, raising himself from
the tomb, gave a shout which so terrified the assassin, who
imagined he beheld the ghost of the dead man, that he fled to
his house and declared that he would never again consent to
go on the Duke's missions.
This was reported by Walter de Brienne, who was so much enraged,
that had not the man feigned sickness and declared he had seen
a vision, he would not have escaped death.
The Palazzo Tempi, from the windows Dianora saw her husband
led to execution, is most celebrated for a most beautiful Madonna
by Raffaelle, possessed by Tempi family, but now in the Gallery
Behind the new Quay is all that remains of the Via De' Bardi.
In the earliest times this street, under the name of via del
Pidiglioso, was inhabited by the most wretched population of
Florence, until the Bardi, partners of the Peruzzi, in a bank
that was the richest in Europe, took up their adobe in this
quarter, and built a street of palaces. The family were originally
from the country, and settled in Florence in the tenth century.
At the commencement of the quarrels between the nobles and
popular party in the year 1215, the Bardi was on the side of
the Buondelmonti or Ghibelline faction, and it was not until
much later that they became Guelps. In 1338 the Bardi and Peruzzi
Bank failed for the sum of 900,000 florins, which they have
lent to Edward III of England for his invasions of France, and
which he refused to repay; but the Bardi soon recovered from
this blow, and even after other losses they became as powerful
When Walter de Brienne ventured to order the amputation of
the hand of one of their followers, Ricci de' Bardi was so indignant
at the infliction of a mode of punishment reserved to the common
people that he joined the conspiracy which caused the downfall
of the tyrant: in reward for this service the Bardi as well
as the rest of the nobles were admitted to a third share in
the government, until their attempts to usurp greater power
occasioned the privilege to be withdrawn. Bishop Acciajuoli
of Florence was sent to announce to them the decree by which
they were excluded from the government, but he was recieved
with high words from Messer Ridolfi d' Bardi, who exided the
populace against the democratic party in the state, whilst sending
for arms and other assistance from Lombardy.
The nobles of the Olrt'Arno barricaded the bridges, streets,
and houses, the Nerli undertook the defence of ponte alla Carraia;
the Frescobaldi and Mannelli that of SS. Trinità: the
Rossi and Bardi defended the Ponte Vecchio and Ponte Rubaconte.
The Government succeded in suppressing the rebellion on the
right bank of the Arno, and attempted to pass the Rubaconte,
but were repulsed by the Bardi, who were at length taken in
the rear and forced into flight. They were recived by the Quaratesi,
and others nobles, but their houses, as before related, were
sacked, and many of them burnt to the ground.
With this destruction of the Bardi, the humiliation of the
nobles was accomplished. The wall which supports the gardens
on the hill to the left, was built after a landslips had caused
the fall of houses, and destruction of life and property; in
the last, which occurred in 1547, Bernardo Buontalenti then
a child of five years old, was buried. When dug out, his forlorn
condition excited the compassion of the Grand-Ducal family,
from whom he recived the education which made him the first
architect of his day.
Nearly opposite this wall is the Palazzo Capponi, formerly
Uzzano, belonging to a younger branch of the Capponi family.
It was built by Nicolò da Uzzano, after a design by Lorenzo
de Bicci. Nicolò was one of the most distinguished Florentines
of the fourteenth century. He was born in 1350, and filled the
office of Gonfalonier three times. Alike opposed to the ambitions
and Medici, and foreseeing danger to the Republic from both
these influential families, he prevented Giovanni de' Medici
being choosen Gonfalonier, and it was only after Uzzano's death,
in 1433 that Cosimo attained to power. Uzzano's only daughter,
Ginevra was married to a Capponi.
The bust of Nicolò d' Uzzano, in terra-cotta, by Donatello,
is still preserved in the Palace which he built; it belongs
to his descendant the Marchese Capponi the head is full of life
and truth, and is finished with marvellous care and attention
to detail, even to every wrinkle in the face, the peculiar from
the ears, and a mole on the upper lip. The drapery is simple,
and arranged in large folds.
At the foot of the staircase of this Palace, in the entrance
hall, are two ancient porphyry Lions, supposed to be Etruscan.
Next to the Palazzo Capponi is the Palazzo Canigiani, at one
time the Hospital of S.ta Lucia, built in 1283. In this Palace
was born Eletta de' Canigiani, who became the mother of Petrarch,
and died in Avignon, at the age of thirty-eight.
The adjoining Church of S.ta Lucia degli Magnoli was founded
by one Uguccione della Pressa, and finished by his son Magnolo,
who gave his name to the church.
In 1244 the patronage was bestowed by the Bishop of Florence
on monks of San Miniato al Monte; but in 1425 the archibishop
transferred this privilege to Nicolò da Uzzano, in recompense
for having caused the principal chapel to be painted and decorated
at his own expense.
The beautiful distemper picture of the Madonna and Saints, by
Domenico Veneziano, at the Uffizi Gallery, was once in S.ta
Lucia dei Magnoli; but there is no good picture now remainig
there. A graceful composition of Luca della Robbia is over the
At the end of via de' Bardi is Piazza de' Mozzi. The Mozzi
was an ancient Guelphic family, who, from the thirteenth century,
were the Pope's bankers; and when Roman prelates or any other
church dignitary arrived in Florence they were lodged in their
palace. Pope Gregory X. Entertained here, when he came to attempt
the reconciliation of the Ghibelline and Guelphic parties in
1273, and when he laid the foundations of the Church of St.
Gregory's in this Piazza. The motto of the Mozzi family , -
" Pax " - dates from Pope Gregory's visit. The fine
gallery belonging to their palace was sold some years ago.
On one side of the Piazza de' Mozzi is the Palazzo Torrigiani,
begun by Baccio d' Agnolo for the Nasi family, of whom Rafaelle
painted his Madonna del Cardellino, now in the Uffizi Gallery.
The Torrigiani belonged to the Guild of Vinattieri - Vintners-
in the fourteenth century.
One of the family, Benedetto di Ciardo, after having been twice
Prior was chosen Gonfalonier in 1380; but, wholly devoted to
commerce, they only became distinguished in the seventeenth
century, when a Torrigiani became Archbishop of Ravenna, and
his brother was made Senator: in 1657 he purchased the Barony
of Decimio, with in 1719 his son exchanged for a Marquisate.
The Marquise Giovan Vincenzio had been brought up for the Church,
and was made a Cardinal in 1753, and as Secretary of State to
Pope Clement XIII. At his death, in 1777, his nephew, Pietro
Guadagni, the son of his sister, Teresa Torrigiani, succeeded
to the title and name.
A tablet has been lately placed over the door of part of the
palace which was inhabited by the late Marchese Carlo Torrigiani.*
( *The Marchese Carlo Torrigiani, already mentionated for his
philantrophy, was the grandson to the Marchese Pietro Guadagni.)
The Palazzo Torrigiani contains one of the finest collections
of pictures in Florence.
N0 I., in a small entrance room, is a fancfiul production of
Botticelli's- a nymph in a wood hunted by a man on horseback
and his dogs, two men are looking on. The
subject is taken from from one of Boccaccio's tales, so curiosly
illustrative of the manners of those days, and the light in
which ladies were then regarded who refused to return the affection
of their admirers, that we think it worth while to give a curtailed
translation of the tale:-In Ravenna, an ancient city of the
Romagna, lived many noblemen and gentelmen, among whom was a
youth called Nastagio degli Onesti, who, at the death of his
father and uncle inherited immense wealth. Being without a wife,
he, as is usual with youths, fell in love with a daughter of
Messer Paolo Traversari, a young maiden of far nobler birth
than his own, but whom he hoped to persuade to love him by his
virtuous acts. Yet, although his acts were most generous, lovely,
and praiseworthy they were not only fruitless, but rather seemed
to injure him in her eyes so cruel and savage was his mistress's
behaviour towards him; which conduct was so hard for Nastagio
to bear, that often, after having lamented in vain, he would
fain killed himself . But as often he tried to take courage
and abandon her, or if possible hate her, as she hated him;
but it seemed the more his hope failed him the greater grew
his love. As he persevered in lavishing vast sums on the lady,
certain of his friends and relations began to fear that he would
end by destroying himself and wasting his whole substance.
They therefore entreated him, and advised him to leave Ravenna,
and to go for a while to another place, that he might diminish
his expenses and cure his passion.
Nastagio often ridiculed this advice, but at last consented,
and ordered great preparation to be made as if he intended to
visit France or Spain, or some other distant place. Mounting
his horse, and accompanied by his friends, he then left Ravenna;
and when he reached a place called Classis, three miles beyond
the town, he told them that he had determinated to remain there,
and that they might return whence they came. Having pitched
tents and erected pavilions, Nastagio began to lead the gayest
and most splendid life, now inviting one friend, than another,
to supper. It happened that in the beginning of May the weather
was unusually fine, which brought the recolletion of his cruel
mistress to his mind, and, desiring all his servants to leave
him that he might indulge in thought of her, he dragged himself
along, step by step, lost in contemplation, until he reached
a pine wood. Suddenly he heard a great weeping and loud lamentations
as from a woman, which interrupted his pleasant thoughts; and,
raising his head to see whence these arose, he beheld a most
beautiful damsel approaching him, running through the briers
and thorns towards the place where he stood, torn and scratched,
and crying aloud for mercy: and he also beheld a pair of large
and fierce mastiffs in pursuit, which, whenever they reached
her, tore her cruelly; and after them, a knight on a black horse,
with a rapier in his hand, using terrible words, and menacing
her with death. This sight struck terror into Nastagio, who,
taking compassion on the unhappy lady, desired, if possible,
to rescue her. Being unprovided with weapons, he seized a branch
of a tree and thus approached the dogs and the knight. But the
knight called out from afar, "Nastagio, do not interfere
in this matter; leave the dogs and me deal with this wicked
woman as she deserves: to which Nastagio replied, " I do
not know who thou art; but this much I tell thee, that it is
the basest cowardice for an armed knight thus to seek the life
of a helpless female, and to set thy dogs at her, as if she
were a wild beast; and I shall certainly defend her to the best
of my power." The knight than said, " Nastagio, I
am from the same land as thyself, and thou wert a little child,
I, who was called Guido degli Anastagi, was far more enamoured
with this woman than thou art with her of the Traversary; by
her pride and cruelty I was driven into such misery that, in
my despair, I slew myself with this rapier which thou beholdest
in my hand, and was condemned to eternal torments. Nor was it
long before she, who was enchanted to hear of my death, died
also, and for the crime of her cruelty, and for her joy at my
torments, of which she did to have done well, she likewise condemned
to the pains of hell, as she descended, the punishment assigned
to her and to me was for tho fly before me -and for me, that
have loved her so fondly, to pursue her as my mortal enemy,
and not as my mistress, and when I reach her to kill her as
I killed myself with this rapier; to tear out her hard and cruel
heart, in which neither love nor pity ever entered, and give
it to my dogs to eat; and, in no long interval, she rises again
to recommence her flight, and I and my dogs follow; and every
Friday at this hour I arrive at this place, and here I punish
her, as you will see; and do not suppose that we will repose
the other days of the week, but we arrive somewhere else, where
she cruelly thought and acted against me; and I, who from a
lover have became an avenger, am forced in like manner to pursue
her, for as many years and many months as she was cruel to me.
Allow me, then, to fulfill the mandate of Divine Justice, nor
oppose what thou canst not prevent."
Nastagio, hearing those words, was so terrified, that there
hardly a hair of his head which did not stand on end, as he
gazed at the unhappy damsel, who timidly awaited her fate. The
knight like a mad dog, sprang upon her , who was held down by
his mastifs, and whilst she cried for mercy, plunged his rapier
through her brest. The damsel fell on her face to the ground,
and he, seizing a knife, cut out her heart, and threw it to
the mastiff, who devoured it instantly. But before long the
damsel rose suddendly again, as if nothing had happened, and
began her flight in the direction of the sea, the dogs after
her, and the knight, remounting his horse renewed his pursuit;
so that in less than half an hour, they disappeared, and Nastagiosaw
them no more.
He remained there long in fear and pity, when occurred to him
that this scene was to be repeated every Friday, it might be
of use to him self. Marking the place, he returned to his servants
and sending for his friend, he addressed them thus: " You
long urged me to cease from loving her who is my enemy, and
I'm ready to do it, if you will grant me one favour, which is
this that next Friday you persuade Messer Paolo Traversari,
and his wife and daughter to come here and dine with me."
His request appeared a very tring one to those present, and
returning to Ravenna, they invited all whom Nostagio wished
to see; and thought it was difficult to persuade the lady beloved
by him, she nevertheless went with the rest. Nastagio ordered
a magnificent repast to be prepared, and had the tables placed
under the pines round that place, where he had beheld the punishiment
of the cruel maiden, and so arranged that mistress should be
seated exactly opposite where the deed would be done. The last
dish had just been brought when all began to hear the cries
of the hunted damsel, and, in wonder asked what it meant. Rising
from their seats to see what it could be, they beheld the unhappy
lady pursued by the knight and dogs. The knight, addressing
them, as he had Nastagio, filled them with terror and wonder;
and when he repeated what he had done before, all the women
present - and there were a great many who had been relations
of the unhappy damsel, as well as of the knight, and remembered
the story of his love and of his death - wept, as if they too
suffered with her: which scene being ended, and the damsel and
knight having disappeared, all the spectators fell into many
and various discourses on what they had seen. But among those
most terrified was the cruel maiden beloved by Nastagio, who
had distinctly seen and heard everything, and was conscious
that scene was more addressed to her than any one else, remembering
the cruelty she had always shown her lover; so that she already
seemed to fly his wrath, and to have the mastiffs at her heels.
And such was her fear, that she herself told her father and
mother she was ready to marry Nastagio, at which they were well
pleased, and the following Sunday, Nastagio espoused her, and
after the marriage they lived long and happily together.* (
see " Decameron " of Boccaccio vol. , also Poetical
Works of John Dryden , Esq., Theodore and Honoria ".)
The next picture in the Torrigiani Gallery is a Magdalene,
by Jacopo da Pontormo, extremely lovely, and the expression
of sorrow and devotion very beautiful. Nos.5 and 7, the Triumph
of David, from a cassone, or bridal chest, painted by Benozzo
Gozzoli. The figure of David, in No.7 is very dignified, as
he is borne along a triumphal car after Saul. In No. 5 the prospective
and horses recall Paolo Uccello's picture in the corridor of
the Uffizi Gallery. No.22 and 23, opposite - the fable of Acca,
an Etruscan legend of the nurse of Romulus and Remus - and the
Expeditions of the Argonauts, are by Paolo Uccello; both likewise
belonged to a cassone. The subjects are treated with much animation,
though the pictures have neither the elegance nor the beauty
of the works of Benozzo Gozzoli.
Some of the finest pictures in the Gallery are in the second
room - three noble portraits No. 9, Girolamo Benivieni, by Leonardo
da Vinci. Girolamo was a Florentine, born in 1452 . He was the
author of various sonnets and songs, chiefly of a religious
character, many of which were composed for the children who
formed the celebrated procession of Savonarola to collect works
of art of an immoral tendency, which they burnt in the Piazza
della Signoria. Benivieni was an ardent admirer of Savonarola;
after the siege of Florence he had the courage to address a
letter to Pope Clement VII. reproaching him the calamities he
had brought on his native city, and demanding, as the sole compensation
of his power, that he should give Florence a free government.
Benivieni was noted for the sanctity of his life. He died in
1542, at ninety years of age. This portrait is wonderfully expressive:
the poet has a noble countenance; he wears a black cap and dress.
The background is a very sweet landscape, treated sketchily,
in a pale greenish-blue colour. No. 7 is the portrait of Masaccio,
by himself - a splendid drawing - careful, correct, and finished
with surprising delicacy and truth. No. 11 a portrait of Luca
Signorelli, likewise by himself - grandly drawn, forcible, and
carefully finished, though hard in outline. No 21, Pollaiolo
- characteristic, though hard, angular, and somewhat stiff.
No. 24 a very fine Spanish picture, a head of St. Anthony by
Ribiera. No. 3 a picture by Garofalo, of Christ and the Woman
of Samaria. Over the door, No.1 is the Riddle of Æsop,
by the Cavaliere d' Arpino, from a drawing by Micheal Angelo.
A Madonna, by Ridolfo Ghirlandaio is very sweet and soft, but
In the third room are two most beautiful paintings for a cassone
by Filippino Lippi, representing the history of Esther. In the
first, No 8, Ahasuerus is seated on his throne: Esther kneels
before him to invite him to the banquet; the surprise of Haman,
who holds his hand to his mouth, is well given. The attendants
of Esther, delicate and refined maidens, wait without; her own
figure in white, walking away, is very lovely. In the background
is seen the banquet. The sharp brilliancy of the lights in the
open air, the distinct drawing of the small figures which yet
preserve their distance and proper planes although the foreground
figures and principal part of the story is kept in comparatively
subdued light, is very remarkable.
Nos 21 nad 22, small pictures by Filippino Lippi, represent
Esther, and the triumph of Mordecai. No. 7 is a very lovely
Madonna and Child, generally attribuited to Rafaelle, of his
Florentine period; in composition it resembles the Cowper Madonna.
The child lays across his mother's lap and looks back with a
most sweet expression, as he playfully holds her veil; the Virgin's
head and hands are extremely beautiul and graceful.
No. 3 is a Deposition from the Cross, by Titian, painted in
his hold age - a noble production, wonderfully vigorous; the
figure and head of Christ are especially beautiful. No 12, a
fine portrait of one of the Alberti family, by Paolo Veronese.
No. 14, a very interesting portrait of the historian Francesco
Guicciardini by an unknown artist.
In the furthest room is a fine Lucrezia by Guido Reni; a good
portrait of Duke Alexander, the Moor and a female portrait called
Ginevra de' Benci, attribuited to Lonardo da Vinci.
Returning through this apartment and crossing the first small
entrance room, in a further suite, are several pictures of merit:
Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane, by Passignano; Muleteers,
by Salvator Rosa; and a very fine Hobbema.
Beyond the Torrigiani Palace, on the former Renai, now laid
out in flower gardens, is a monument commenced by Bartoliniand
finished by Romanelli, to the memory of Prince Demidoff, who,
in conjunction with the Marchese Carlo Torrigiani, liberally
assisted the cause of education in Florence. Behind the palace,
where once was a picturesque line of houses, forming the back
of Via de' Bardi, are also now plats of flowers, and a broad
At the end of the Piazza dei Renai, facing the Torrigiani Palace,
is the Palazzo Serristori, a family who were, from an early
period, adherents of the Medici. Some, however made an honourable
exeception; Francesco Serristori, with his sons Guglielmo and
Nicolò, attempted to liberate their country from the
tyranny of the Grand-Duke Cosimo I. They were declared rebels,
and the youngest, Nicolò, when taken prisoner at the
battle of Montemurlo, was confinated for life in the horrible
subterranean dungeons of the Tower of Volterra.
The Palazzo Serristori was occupied during the siege of 1528
by Malatesta Baglioni, of Perugia, to whom was confided the
conduct of the defence, and who betrayed the city to the Imperialist.
Malatesta consulted his astrologer on all the occasion; and
the room supposed to have been inhabitated by this impostor,
is that all remain of the palace, as it existed in the sixteenth
Near the Palazzo Serristori is the Church of San Nicolò
sopr' Arno. In the Piazza before this church the citizens met
in 1529, and swore to defend their Republic to the last drop
of their blood: after Florence had been surrendered to the Imperialist,
it was in the Belfry of san Nicolo' that Michael Angelo concealed
himself, until Pope Clement VII promised to pardon him for having
constructed the fortifications above Florence.
San Nicolò was one of the first twelve churches of Florence
erected about the tenth century. Before 1184 it belonged to
the monks of San Miniato al Monte, but in 1374 Gregory XI placed
it under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Florence. On the
extrenal walls of San Nicolò is a tablet recording the
height reached by the Arno during the flood in 1557. Over the
high altar was once a picture by Gentile da Fabriano, painted
for the Qaurantesi family, much praised by Vasari, but of which
nothing now remains except the side panels with saints which
were on either side of the Madonna. Cavalcaselles observes:
- The side panels of the votive piece are still in San Nicolò,
filled with a pretty graceful Magdalene in profile; St Nicolas,
on whose cape scenes from the Passion are given with exquisite
minuteness; a fine St, George and a Baptist were in the old
Siennese antique style; the whole ornamented with profusion,
flat and fused in tone, and with a rosy flesh tint shadowed
in cool grey. In the gables of these panels are figures of canonized
friars between angels".* (See " Crowe and Cavalcaselle
",vol III p. 102 A faithul engraving from this may be seen
in Rosini's " Storia Favola " XXXVIII ).
In the sacristy is a much-injured fresco, attribuited to Ridolfo
Ghirlandaio, of the Virgin letting down her gridle to St. Thomas.
St. Thomas is a graceful figure, and expresses in his action
the gratitude and humility with which he receives the gift.
A picture on panel, recently discovered in the church, but
also now in the sacristy, is worthy of attention; it is thus
spoken of by Cavalcaselle: - "The Eternal, surrounded by
a glory Cherubim of Umbrian type sending down the dove of the
Holy Ghost to the Virgin and Christ, both of whom are kneeling
on a raimbow, spanning a golden heaven lighted by a sun on relief.
The resurrection of Lazarus, in the foreground of a landscape,
and St. Louis of Toulouse, from the subjects of one side; whilst
on the other are St. Cosimo, Damian, and a third saint together,
and St. Benedict with a chained devil. It is more hasty than
the Virgin of the Quaratesi, and strongly impressed with with
defects of the Umbrian and Gubbian schools."
The Porta San Nicolò is the only gate remaining in his
original height and form.
The Porta San Miniato, between the Porta San Nicolò
and the city wall which skirts the gardens of the Boboli, leads
to the churches of San Francesco and San Miniato, beyond Florence,
and is now connected with the Porta Romana by the beautiful
road of the Colli. In the Fondaccio di San Nicolò was
the the house of Doni, the patron of Raffaelle d' Urbino.
Returning from San Nicolò to Via Bardi, on the top of
the Costa, is a large building, now the Villa Petrovitz, but
formerly a monastery of barefooted Augustinians. It was founded
by the Grand-Duchess Christina of Lorraine in the sixteenth
century, upon the demolishied houses of the Sermanni family.
A narrow passage leads to the Via della Costa, or Hill of San
Giorgio and the Fortess of the Belvedere.
Half way up this street, on the right, is a house once inhabitated
by Galileo Galilei; the sun-dial in the garden behind is supposed
to have been constructed by the philosopher.
The Fortress of San Giorgio or Santa Maria in Belvedere was
built by the Grand-Duke Ferdinand I. who employed Buontalenti
for this purpose. The first stone was laid in 1590. Beneaht
it is a subterranean chamber in which the Medici kept their
treasures, and for which the Buontalenti invented a lock which
none could open without being made acquainted with the secret
of its construction. The Porta di San Giorgiowas built in 1324,
and was so called from a little Church of St. George which once
existed in that neighbourhood.
On the side towards the country is a square marble tablet,
on wich is sculptured in high relief St. George and the Dragon.
Within the arch is a fresco, better preserved than any other
on the gates of Florence. The Virgin and Child are seated on
a magnificent throne. On the right is St. George in armour leaning
on a shied, on which is painted the arms of Florence, the Red
Cross on a white field; and on the left is a saint with a pen
and book, who either represents St. Sigismund or St. Maximilian.
This fresco is attribuited by Vasari to Bernardo Daddi, a scholar
of Spinello Aretino.
Descending the hill, and passing the Augustinian Convent, the
street divides into two narrow ways - that to the right leading
again to Via Bardi, near Palazzo Tempi; and that to the left
a steep descendent to the the Piazza S.ta Felicità. A
small church at the entrance of this street, near the Costa,
is called San Girolamo, and at one time possessed a painting
by Ridolfo Ghirlandaio, but it is now Government property.